Some Like it Hot

flameproof-sign

Each year the Dallas Arboretum and Botanical Garden tests more than 4,000 plants at the Dallas Arboretum Trial Gardens.  The very best of those are awarded the “FlameProofTM” Plant Award.

This award is reserved for those plants that can take the Texas heat! Only plants which not only survive, but thrive n our blistering, burning, furnace blast of a Summer receive this award. And as any Texas gardener knows Texas weather throws everything at a plant, drought, floods, relentless winds, crazy changes in temperatures and just about everything else.  These plants took it and looked good doing it.

“If you’re looking for a plant that will flourish in our hot tropical Summers then look no further. These winners will look great in your garden from May right up until first frost.  We trust them so much that they are the backbone of the Dallas Arboretum’s 66-acre summer displays every year!” Jimmy Turner, Senior Director of Gardens at the Dallas Arboretum and Botanical Garden.

Each week throughout the Summer, Calloway’s and Cornelius Nursery will feature a FlameProof-approved plant. Check this page weekly to learn more about FlameProof Plants! Then, go into any of our stores, ask for a punch card, purchase four different varieties of FlameProof Plants and earn a t-shirt! Download the t-shirt redemption form here.

coleus-royalglissadecontainerPlant #12 Coleus ‘Royal Glissade’
‘Royal GlissadeTM‘ Coleus has jagged moss green leaves with raspberry venation toned leaves. Bright Summer color foliage for flower beds or mixed patio containers. Will tolerate full sun or part shade and has no flowers.

 

 

The Coleus ‘Royal Glissade’:

  • Tolerates heat and is low maintenance
  • Performs well in sun or shade
  • Grows quickly to 2-3 feet tall
  • Has colorful foliage
  • Is deer resistant
  • Attracts birds

Coleus 'Kingswood Torch'Plant #11 Coleus ‘Kingswood Torch’
The Coleus ‘Kingswood Torch,’ has flaming magenta foliage that is overlaid with orange and burgundy. Vigorous and fast-growing plants quickly reach 3 to 4 feet. Grows in full sun to light shade and prefers good drainage. This variety does not bloom.

 

 

The Coleus ‘Kingswood Torch’:

  • Tolerates heat and is low maintenance
  • Performs well in full sun or part shade
  • Grows quickly to 3-4 feet tall
  • Has colorful foliage
  • Is deer resistant
  • Attracts hummingbirds

duranta-erecta-cuban-goldPlant #10 Duranta erecta ‘Cuban Gold’
A member of the Verbena family, ‘Cuban Gold’ is the most popular of the yellow Durantas. It thrives in the heat and has occasional sprays of blue flowers that are followed by attractive clusters of golden non-edible berries.

 

 The Duranta erecta ‘Cuban Gold’:

  • Tolerates heat and humid conditions
  • Performs well in full sun or part shade
  • Spreads 12-24 inches wide
  • Grows quickly
  • Maintains colorful foliage
  • Is ideal for use in containers, baskets and borders

cannatropical-rose-outlinePlant #9 Canna ‘Tropical Rose’
‘Tropical Rose’ has large tropical-looking foliage and is topped in Summer with brightly-colored flowers. These plants are heavy feeders that love Summer heat and moisture but also need good Winter drainage. Dwarf, blue green foliage with terminal clusters of rosy pink flowers in Summer.

 

The Canna ‘Tropical Rose’:

  • Tolerates heat and drought conditions
  • Performs well in full sun
  • Grows compactly with 3 to 4 blooms

torenia-catalina-midnight-bluePlant #8 Torenia ‘Catalina Midnight Blue’
Early blooming yellow-throated blooms and a mounding/trailing habit combine for an impressive display that fills hanging baskets and containers with masses of color. It’s wonderful as a groundcover in shady areas. Heat and shade tolerant plants with Snapdragon-like flowers all season.

 

The Torenia’Catalina Midnight Blue’:

  • Tolerates heat and is low maintenance
  • Performs well in shade and part shaded areas
  • Grows low and spreads 8 to 16 inches
  • Blooms Snapdragon-like flowers
  • Is Deer resistant
  • Attracts hummingbirds

muehlenbeckia_creeping_wire_vine_59

Plant #7 Muehlenbeckia ‘Creeping Wirevine’
A low creeping evergreen groundcover, Muehlenbeckia forms a spreading mat of wiry stems, clothed in tiny rounded leaves with a glossy green finish. Fall and Winter color is an attractive bronze green. Insignificant green flowers become black-seeded white berries in late Summer. Great for large bedding areas and slopes.

 

The Muhlenbeckia ‘Creeping Wirevine’:

  • Tolerates drought conditions and is low maintenance
  • Performs well in shade and part shaded areas
  • Grows low and spreads 8 to 10 inches
  • Blooms tiny flowers
  • Tolerates heavy foot traffic
  • Is a STEPABLE® plant

 

lobularia-snow-princess

Plant #6 Lobularia ‘Snow Princess’
A unique breakthrough in the genus for heat tolerance and extended season performance. This Lobularia is extremely vigorous. It puts no energy into setting seed and has an incredibly long bloom time. Creates a great hanging basket or window box and is a perfect filler in combo planters.      

 

The Lobularia ‘Snow Princess’:

  • Tolerates heat and is low maintenance
  • Performs well in full sun
  • Has a mounding growth habit
  • Blooms fragrant white flowers
  • Attracts butterflies

canna-tropical-yellow

Plant #5 ‘Tropical Yellow’ Canna
‘Tropical Yellow’ has the same big, abundant blooms found on giant cannas, but on a lush 2 ½ foot plant that is compact enough to grow in a container or small perennial garden. Radiant yellow blooms dusted with pink specks begin blooming in mid-Summer and continues until the first frost.     

 

The ‘Tropical Yellow’ Canna:

  • Tolerates heat and drought conditions
  • Performs well in full sun
  • Grows compactly to 2 1/2 feet tall
  • Blooms huge flowers all Summer
  • Attracts hummingbirds 

 

Perennial Luna HibiscusPlant #4 ‘Luna’ Hibiscus
‘Luna’ Hibiscus puts on an impressive show with eye-catching blooms measuring 6 to 8 inches and stronger branch structure than other perennial Hibiscus. This plant is perfect for use in flower beds or large containers.

 

 

The ‘Luna’ Hibiscus:

  • Tolerates heat and drought conditions
  • Performs well in full sun
  • Reaches 3 feet tall in the ground
  • Blooms large 6 to 8 inch flowers
  • Does not require pinching
  • Is part of the Hot Summer Survivors Selection

 

euphorbia_white-manausl Plant #3 ‘White Manaus’ Euphorbia
One of the tallest and most vigorous of annual Euphorbia, ‘White Manaus’ is favored over ‘Diamond Frost’ for large area plantings.  Growing about twice the size (two feet), and sporting a mass of white flowers for the entire growing season.

 

 

The ‘White Manaus’ Euphorbia: 

  • Tolerates heat and drought conditions
  • Performs well in full sun to light shade
  • Grows two feet tall
  • Blooms white flowers all season
  • Is deer resistant
  • Prefers good drainage

 

'Emerald Lace' IpomoeaPlant #2 ‘Emerald Lace’ Ipomoea
‘Emerald Lace’ Ipomoea works great as an annual groundcover or in combination with Summer color in containers, flower beds and hanging baskets.

 

 

The ‘Emerald Lace’ Ipomoea: 

  • Tolerates heat
  • Performs well in sun or part shade
  • Spreads up to 48 inches
  • Has Chartreuse foliage
  • Rquires little  maintenance

 

dragon-wing-begoniaPlant #1 ‘Dragon Wing’ Begonia
‘Dragon Wing’ plants fill in fast to form lush garden beds that last from Spring up to the first frost. Use ‘Dragon Wing’ Begonias as the focus of stunning mixed containers and hanging baskets. ‘Dragon Wing’ Begonias boast loose clusters of red or pink bell-like blooms and glossy, dark green, wing-shaped leaves. 

 

The ‘Dragon Wing’ Begonia:

  • Tolerates heat
  • Performs well in sun or part sun
  • Grows 18 to 24 inches full and wide
  • Blooms Spring into Fall
  • Requires little maintenance
  • Attracts bees and butterflies

Comments (71)

C BrownJune 11th, 2010 at 10:01 am

I thought dragon wing begonias needed shade to part shade?

PlantMaster Reply:

They love shade to part shade, but they also grow well in sun to part sun when given ample moisture.

Mary Lee PippinJune 12th, 2010 at 6:48 am

My dragon wing is in total shade. It is blooming but the leaves are not a dark green. The soil seems to always be moist. What am I doing wrong?

PlantMaster Reply:

Dragon Wing begonias are very tolerant and versatile when it comes to sun and shade. The foliage will get a bronze tinge in full sun and will stay green in the shade. I would suggest cutting back a little on the water as Dragon Wings don’t need to stay moist constantly. I would also recommend using a slow release fertilizer.

randyJune 25th, 2010 at 7:18 am

Is Euphorbia a perennial?

admin Reply:

Some varieties of Euphorbia are perennial, but the White Manaus is not.

Kay JonesJune 25th, 2010 at 12:40 pm

I need a plant to sit in a small (5″) plant stant that will do well in a sunroom with indirect light. Preferably one that blooms and will stay rather small.

admin Reply:

Some bromeliads and orchids work very well in this type of indoor situation, and they usually have a very long blooming period.

Olivia KoudelkaJuly 2nd, 2010 at 12:12 pm

The Luna Hibiscus is beautiful, does it come in other colors ?

PlantMasterJuly 6th, 2010 at 4:00 pm

I’ve seen Pink and Red as well as White in the stores, but if you need other colors it would be a good idea to phone ahead to the store where you will shop to be sure that they are still available.

Nadene GreenJuly 8th, 2010 at 10:58 am

I use numerous pots for my gardening. (we have a large pool taking up most of our back yard). I have been having a huge problem with ants in the soil, and even in my window boxes. I also have two dogs, leaving me with little option for typical ant treatment products. HELP !

PlantMaster Reply:

Hi Nadene. As with the reply below, the diatomaceous earth works in sensitive areas as does spinosad, an organic pesticide produced from a byproduct of brewing some alcoholic beverages.

Gary-gardener Reply:

Nadene. As a novice gardener, I too had a problem with ants finding their way into my potted plants hanging off my deck. Put some plastic wrap over the drain holes in you pots but not up the sides of the pot, then fill with dirt. The plastic wrap will allow the water to drain out, but the ants will not be able to get to the soil. I was surprised that it worked and the ants did not crawl up the outside of the pot to get to the soil from the top.

Nancy McGillivray Reply:

Nadene, I use fine window screening at the bottom of all my pots. If it keeps ants out of my screened porch it will work in planters too. That way it drains well.

Lori Reply:

I have used coffee grounds with good luck. Cheap and a way to “recycle” something that was going in the trash.

Carole GeorgeJuly 8th, 2010 at 12:25 pm

Diatmacous Earth (powder) has worked for me and it is harmless to animals. I use it indoors and outside. It is inexpensive. I buy in large bags.

Mary AndersonJuly 9th, 2010 at 7:54 am

What is the best way to keep Canna’s blooming? Do you cut the spent flower stock or just remove the old flowers?

PlantMaster Reply:

It seems that deadheading, removal of old spent blossoms, is the key to keep Canna Lilies blooming for longer periods. Remove only the dried flower and the seed pod that may try to form. Do not remove the stalk. Also, keep your plants well fed and protected from damage from Canna Leaf Roller worms and other insects.

Connie Miller Reply:

How to you eliminate the Leaf Roller worm problem? My cannas are getting brown, diseased leaves on them. Some roll up so I am suspecting the roller worm. I love my cannas, but please help…

PlantMaster Reply:

If the Canna Leaf Rollers are the problem, here is a very good document that shows the worms and their damage along with recommendations for controlling them:

http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/galveston/Gardening-Handbook/PDF-files/GH-018–canna-leafroller.pdf

Laura HodgeJuly 15th, 2010 at 7:14 am

Can I transplant star jasmine right now? I would be moving it to a spot with the same conditions- facing west in the sun. The plants are about two years old and look kind of thin. I want to train it on a wall. Would it be much better to start with a new plant? How difficult is it to train star jasmine on a brick wall? Do I pace the runners like a fan, vertically, or laterally? How do I prune it to achieve a fuller look at the bottom?

Lynette Reply:

Laura,

Right now is just about the hardest time for any plant to recover from the root loss of a transplant. I wouldn’t transplant unless I wasn’t sure I was going to want that plant later; maybe only as a trial, to see if it could work. It’s especially risky in a hot, very sunny location. Most plants are best transplanted in their winter dormancy, but star jasmine is pretty tender in the Dallas area, so probably right after the last freeze would be the best time, very early spring next year. :-) I hope this helps.

PlantMaster Reply:

Laura, I agree with everything that Lynette says above in regards to the timing. As for how to train it onto a brick wall, it will need some sort of support like wire, trellis or lattice on which to twine. It usually will not cling by itself. Just remember, as Lynette suggests, that you should be sure about where you want it before planting it there. It does become woody with age and can be a real chore to maintain on a wall once it matures. Even though it is wonderfully fragrant while in bloom, it will need some maintenance.

Carol HutchinsonJuly 15th, 2010 at 7:22 am

I also have a large pool taking up most of the yard. and wanted a change from the hibiscus. and wondering Jew. We have several medium-large pots around the pool. What do you suggest that is colorful, heat resistant and does not cause a problem cleaning the pool. Thank you.

PlantMaster Reply:

I’d use annuals like Vinca, Purslane and even tropical Crotons for loads of color. All are heat-loving plants and should cause little if any litter problems around your pool.

Lu EggJuly 15th, 2010 at 8:05 am

How long does Jasmine bloom? It was blooming when I first bought it & is growing like mad but no blooms. How do I keep geranimums blooming? I’m using BR61 as a fertilizer but it doesn’t seem to be doing any good.

txsunflwr Reply:

Jasmine only blooms in the spring, will bloom again next spring. The geraniums don’t like the very hot weather and will not bloom much this summer, but keep them healthy with water and fertilizer and they will bloom again this fall as soon as the weather is cooler.

PlantMaster Reply:

Lu, txsunflwr is right. Most Jasmines bloom only in the Spring. Some like the Sambac and Grand Duke Jasmines will bloom during the year, but these are more tropical and not the normal Jasmine that we think of. It is also true that Geraniums in our region often stop blooming during the heat of the Summer. Once temperatures calm down in the Fall you will usually see a resurgence of blooms. Just continue feeding them as you are.

Beverly GoffJuly 15th, 2010 at 11:24 am

we’re having an outbreak of BAGWORMS–on everything, even azaleas. the bags already are formed. what can we do??!!

PlantMaster Reply:

Our weather conditions this year have been ideal for this outbreak. I pick them off of my plants, but often you can’t reach the bags in a tall tree. A spray of Worm Killer that contains the biological pesticide called Bacillus thuringiensis, or Bt, will usually work but often takes longer than many gardeners want to wait. Also at this time of year they may be ready to pupate and this type of control will not work. Chemicals like acephate (Orthene), carbaryl (Sevin or Bonide Eight) and permethrin will aid in control, but you’ll need to spray the entire tree for it to be effective if the worms have not begun to pupate.

Shirley SclafaniJuly 15th, 2010 at 11:50 am

Plant #6 Lobularia ‘Snow Princess”: I planted one in container (quart size into a 12″ pot) in late May. after about 3 weeks all of the flowers fell off and it has been just sitting there. Leaves increased but no flowers. Last week it began to sparcely reflower after several drenches of “Garrett Juice”. I had added slow-release fertilizer (your brand) at re-potting time. Any idea what happened? Since it is not a re-seeder i probably won’t ever get it back to where it is suppose to be. Gets about 5-6 hours of sun.:(

PlantMaster Reply:

Try a light trimming of just the outer edges of the stems. Often this will encourage the formation of new stems which will also lead to flower formation. Sometimes we need to kick-start our plants after they’ve been otherwise unresponsive. Your fertilizing schedule sounds fine. In the actual trials that we observed at the Dallas Arboretum, they didn’t trim their plants but they were also planted in soil that was ideally amended with expanded shale and organic matter and had a covering of hardwood mulch on top to conserve moisture and regulate soil temperatures.

VernonaJuly 15th, 2010 at 1:51 pm

How do you treat for grasshoppers and green worms eating on my geraniums?
They sit on my covered patio facing the west.

PlantMaster Reply:

Most gardeners just pick them off when they are seen. However, if your area has a heavy population of them, you may want to spray with a pesticide like carbaryl (Sevin or Bonide Eight) on a regular basis.

Jeanette JohnsonJuly 15th, 2010 at 6:03 pm

We live across the street from a park and have moles in our front and back yards and flower beds. How do we get rid of them?

PlantMaster Reply:

There are some repellents that may work, products like Shake Away, Scram or All-Shot. They require to be re-applied after rain or irrigation since they have a fairly short period of efficacy. You may consider calling an extermination professional and have them quote you.

teresa mckennaJuly 16th, 2010 at 8:27 am

The last three years my periwinkles live until about this time of the year and look beautiful. as in the past, they are beginning to turn yellow at the bottom and then within a couple of days sort of wilt and fall over. on the yellow leaves there are also small black spots. they are in predominantly sun & a little shade and watered daily.

PlantMaster Reply:

Periwinkles suffer from a dieback that causes similar symptoms as you’ve described. It originates from a fungus that is spread by splashing water and by aerial spores. Once they wilt and collapse, there is nothing that can be done to correct the disease. Planting more resistant varieties like the upright ‘Cora’ and ‘Nirvana’ series may help you enjoy these plants in your future plantings. Daily watering may be too much and could weaken the plants, making them more susceptible to the disease. If your plants are wilting because of the disease, watering more will not help them revive because the roots have been damaged.

Randy RaileyJuly 16th, 2010 at 5:09 pm

When is the best time to transplant Iris?

PlantMaster Reply:

I’ve read where the best time is about 6-8 weeks after blooming, but have also read that this can be accomplished at any time as long as you avoid hot temperatures like we’re having now and give the transplants at least 6-8 weeks before the first frost. That means any time during the mid- to late-Spring and early Summer then again in the Fall.

Joan B Reply:

I had a gazillion (well, maybe just ‘a lot’) irises when I lived in Austin. I was advised to divide the tubers and transplant in the fall. This seemed to work well. Of course Austin is a slightly different growing zone plus these irises were probably planted in the 1930s or 40s, if that makes a difference. Some of the iris beds were in full sun and others in part shade. The plus to this was that different beds bloomed at slightly different times and provided a longer iris season.

Joan BJuly 30th, 2010 at 12:56 pm

Is Plant #7 Muehlenbeckia ‘Creeping Wirevine’ evergreen? I’d hate to cover up some very naked areas of my yard with something that is not evergreen.
If not, any suggestions? This area is mostly shade as well as mostly ignored. Thanks.

PlantMaster Reply:

It is considered semi-evergreen, so there may be certain Winters where it might lose more leaves than other, milder Winters. It will tolerate shade and once established is considered very drought tolerant.

Joan BAugust 4th, 2010 at 6:13 pm

Next question. I have a yard full of rocks. No, they didn’t fall out of my head, thank you, but were used for ‘fill’ when my house was built in the 40s. The rocks vary in size, most of them being fist sized. Any ideas as to what I can do with these rocks? They’re bigger than pea gravel or the next size up (river stone?), so they’re too big for paths, etc. I know that they go down at least 18 inches in depth b/c i had my gas line replaced last year. I’ve got way too many to go around breaking windows with, so I’d like some suggestions. Anybody want some rocks? Anyone have any creative uses? Please help.

Jennifer Reply:

Rock Garden?

Joan Baron Reply:

Cute. Despite my sarcasm, I wouldn’t mind doing a partial rock garden, but I would think my rocks aren’t the right size. (Do I sound like Goldilocks?) I’ll have to go to the Dallas Arboretum to see what they might suggest. On the plus side, whenever it rains, different stuff comes to the surface. I have a collection of small, intact, glass bottles that have popped up. Since I plan to do some mosaics and mixed media projects, they might come in handy. Anyone in Dallas who wants to go dumpster diving for broken glass for mosaics, let me know. But I will claim ownership of any Aladdin’s lamps or pots of gold. :)

TC ZolmanAugust 22nd, 2010 at 12:19 am

Of all the plants that are listed which are annuals?

PlantMaster Reply:

All are considered annuals except the Cannas, Wirevine and the Luna Hibiscus.

Karen H.August 27th, 2010 at 6:33 am

I have a Knockout Rose that I planted this spring. It is getting water, fertilizer and plenty of sun. But has lost most of its leaves and has stopped blooming. I was told to prune it back 1/3 of its height. Still looks very sad. Help!

PlantMaster Reply:

It’s been really hot lately but pruning it back will help it to fill back in once the temperatures get milder. I’ve already seen new growth on my Knock Out Roses since last week’s rains, so just be patient. You can also feed it with Rose Fertilizer to encourage new growth and Fall flowers.

Norma GarzaAugust 27th, 2010 at 7:58 am

Can I prune a Plumeria now?

PlantMaster Reply:

Hi Norma. Pruning now might cause some new growth that might not be green and tender through the Winter when it is brought indoors for protection. But you can prune Plumeria plants any time through the year. Just remember that the pruned stalk will require another year to produce flowers.

lynn gamronAugust 27th, 2010 at 9:51 am

What is the most effective treatment for chinch bugs in St. Augustine?

PlantMaster Reply:

Probably the most effective treatment would be to spray with liquid products listed for them in the areas where you have the problem then to broadcast granular products listed for Chinch Bugs over your entire lawn for further prevention and control. Look for the Bayer products listed for Chinch Bugs.

HelenAugust 27th, 2010 at 10:39 am

I bought some “sun loving” impatience that have struggled in the sun and heat this summer. I’m hesitant to buy other plants claiming to love heat and sun. Are any of these plants marginally adaptable to Plano, TX heat?

PlantMaster Reply:

Hi Helen. I just visited the Dallas Arboretum this past weekend and their SunPatiens were beautiful - still blooming and still healthy after all of the 100+ degree days of Summer. SunPatiens and regular Impatiens require lots of water and soil that drains perfectly, so they are a challenge in our clay soils and extremely hot weather. But they are not impossible and are more than just marginally adaptable. The same can be said for many Begonia varieties.

Helen Reply:

I watered every couple of days, and the plants still flopped whenever the sun hit them in the afternoons. I moved them a few days ago, and they are trying to revive.

CindyAugust 27th, 2010 at 11:27 am

We recently bought a house with a yard that had been neglected for many years. There are some small areas with healthy St. Augustine, but most of the yard is weeds or other misc. grass types. Everyone in our neighborhood has St. Augustine lawns and we would like one too. How can I “cultivate” the small areas I currently have and encourage them to “spread” to the rest of the yard. And…what do I do about all of the weeds? Most weed killers say not to use in St. Augustine. Help!

PlantMaster Reply:

Hi Cindy. Many weed killers do caution their use on St. Augustine grass, but many are safe when directions are followed closely. If you have broadleaved weeds most all of the 2,4-D products are effective and safe for St. Augustine when mixed and applied correctly. Also it is the time of year to apply pre-emergent weed killers to prevent weed seeds from germinating over the Fall and Winter months. Another application next Spring will help to prevent Spring weed seeds from sprouting. If the weeds that you have are grassy weeds, keeping them mowed down is probably the best control until the St. Augustine can cover more completely to crowd them out.

To encourage the existing grass to spread more, start early in the Spring with a good feeding, discourage the weeds as you’ve mentioned and mow frequently to keep the weeds in check and encourage branching of the St. Augustine runners for quicker coverage.

HelenSeptember 15th, 2010 at 2:51 pm

Any suggestions for a plant that would work this time of year in Plano, TX for complete shade? I have 2 cement pots on both sides of our front door area that held Caladiums until last weekend. I’ve searced the internet for an idea of what sort of plant will survive in this area for this time of year. Something with a bit of color would be nice.
Thanks!

SuchitraNovember 26th, 2010 at 9:50 pm

Hi,Duranta repens linn is one my favourite in my school campus but unfortunately some black spots have been seen which is spreading very fast.This has resulted in stunted growth and some plants fails are dying.Please help me to save these plants.

PlantMaster Reply:

We cannot determine where your plants and your campus are located. As your question is dated November 26th, and if you reside in Texas, it is possible that after our Thanksgiving freeze here in Texas that your Duranta repens has been damaged by frost. Only warmer weather next Spring will help them to revive if this is the case. If you have a way to protect them through the balance of the Winter, consider covering them with frost cloth before the next predicted frost and make sure that they are well-watered before any frost arrives. It is possible that something else may have caused the spots, but without more data or descriptions it is impossible to diagnose.

JenniferJanuary 10th, 2011 at 10:09 pm

I am a landscape designer in Jacksonville Florida, I have used Cuban gold Durante in several of my clients landscapes….we have had a brutally cold winter so far with 3 hard freezes so far and it’s only January. The cubans have been knocked pretty hard and I am wondering if they come back? Can anyone help me with this….

PlantMaster Reply:

Durantas are tough plants, even to some cold weather. The severity (temperature and duration) of the cold that you’ve experienced combined with the moisture level in the plant when the freeze occurred will determine just how much damage the plants might have experienced. I’ve seen these plants defoliate entirely during the Winter and come back the following Spring when exposed to repeated freezes. I’m pretty sure that these events were not severe or long-lasting, but enough to cause some tip damage and leaf loss. But the plants survived and with moderate cosmetic pruning the next Spring looked pretty nice by Summer.

It appears that there are no hard and fast rules, and I’m sure that Jacksonville, Florida is quite a bit different than Dallas-Fort Worth or even Houston.

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Joan Baron Reply:

huh?

tabletkithermacutsMay 6th, 2011 at 8:37 pm

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AbnerSeptember 27th, 2011 at 1:29 am

Good post! I am also gonna create a blog article concerning this… cheers

LarissaApril 3rd, 2012 at 9:57 pm

It\’s a Hoya!! I took a clipping from my gadmrnother\’s plant 14 years ago when she passed away. I now have them all over the house. I just love it when they bloom. (They thrive on neglect!) Have you ever tasted the nectar? I wish I could think of a way to harvest it to make a syrup. Mmmm. Magic indeed.

KatieJune 22nd, 2012 at 2:02 pm

I have a small dirt area in front of my fence. The fence is about 18 feet long but it is only about 8 inches wide because we have a cement patio. It gets a good amount of sun. What kind of flowers or plants would be good to plant in the compact ares? help..

admin Reply:

Hello Katie,
Please post your question on our new website: http://www.calloways.com/plantmaster

We’d be happy to help you there!

Your Friends at Calloway’s and Cornelius Nursery